It is that moment, at that time when my mind is most quiet; nothing else matters in the world, its me and the breath of the mother ocean. If synchronicity is possible, i may ride the breath of the ocean for a long time….. I love my life, and most everything i do and create, but this time of year holds a special place, the time i get to spend in Nicaragua, slightly disconnected from electronics (although i know each year it seems more is on my plate to do, and disconnect is nearly impossible) The more i surf, the more the brain quiets and listening occurs. Possibly listening to the next creative step in nomadic, or possibly just listening to the hum of the earth. Either one is well worth the time. I got down here, sped to the sandal factory and spend the next day working on sandal stuff, i have to say my mind was overcrowded with the thought of surfing the next day. I got to San Juan del sur pretty late at night, 2 of my good buddy’s had gotten in about 6 hours earlier and were waiting for me in town. It just so happens that this time of the month the high tides were occurring around sunrise and sunset, so the next 5 days were two-day surf sessions. getting up at dark, driving to the beach surfing during sunrise; then going home to take a nap, only to come out for sunset to surf. That is one way to get your body readjusted to surfing. Surfing is some of the best exercise i have ever had, and also some of the best chillin…. Sometimes its 10-15 minutes before a set rolls through and sitting in the water with your buddy’s is like no other board meeting around.
This year I had the usual crew down, some long time buddy’s; mostly a surf trip filled with me catching some days to work on sandals. This year we brought a film/photo person to work on some nomadic state of mind video and photo shoot. Fortunately everybody was on the same page. Surf first, the rest will come naturally. Having an acupuncture doctor on this trip, made the breaks in between surfing a deck/pool filled of people with small needles hanging out of the various injury spots. Surfing every day is no joke on your body, each year as i get in better shape it becomes easier to surf everyday, i get smarter how to use energy and catching waves and getting out past the break gets easier. I have also found this magical combination of magnesium, potassium, selenium, and calcium before i go to bed; these help release the lactic acid in the muscles to help relieve noodle arm the next day, followed with a high protein vegetarian diet. My goal is to surf 18 straight days, and still manage to go to the sandal farm a few of the mornings. looking good so far….
San Juan del sur is one of the quirky towns i have always felt at home at. A small town, with surf really close by. it has become a hot spot among the surfing community and international traveling community, which i have noticed to cause it to lose some of its charm. with more people comes the drugs, prostitutes, and crime not to mention the prices going up on everything. San Juan del sur is the most expensive place in Nicaragua, which its still relatively cheap for what it is, but has definitely gone up quite a bit from everything from food to taxi drives, a lot of the real x pats left a few years ago. To mention the surf. 10 years ago when i discovered this town, i remember going to the surf break of maderas and surfing with maybe 4 people. Primitive it was back then. One time i cut my head on the surf board and the building that was not finished yet had no running water or a mirror to look at my injury, i had to use a car mirror to see if i needed stitches and not really a car, a 4×4 because a car would never make it there then- or really even now. Today there is 3 restaurants, a camp ground, hostel, and daily shuttles to the beach. I stopped surfing at this beach mostly (except sunrise, as the shuttles don’t get people there then), what used to be 4 people on the waves is now 40, its a bit overcrowded. Fortunately, there are some other places to surf that most people don’t know how to get to. When that changes i will go find another place, or maybe start going to the property i bought on the beach up north a while ago. There, there is no road, no electricity. quite the adventure. not a place to be if you get hurt, but defintately a place to tune out.
The swell has diminished over the last few days, the waves are small where it feels like not even to get in the water; but we still do. Why? Any day in the water is better then a day at the office…..
We did manage to get some video and photography done, and come up with some really neat ideas for filming. Fortunately we found some traveling actors who like to have a good time as well.
Packing it up to get out in the water in about 30 minutes….